The summit often commands all our attention. It stands tall, waiting. But after more than 300 summits, I have learned that the climb is only half the journey.
The rest is found in the valley below.
While the ascent tests your physical strength, exploring the Kerinci Culture and History offers a different kind of connection. As a vital part of the Culture of Sumatra, this region holds a quiet strength a mix of old traditions and colonial history that shaped the landscape we walk upon.
For my team and I, this valley is not just a place to start a hike. It is our home.
If you are willing to slow down, there is a rich heritage waiting. Let me guide you through the life that thrives in the shadow of the volcano.
Uncovering History:
Before you step onto the mountain treks, it is worth knowing who has lived here for generations. The “Suku Kerinci” are the original people of this high land.
Our society follows a matrilineal line, similar to the Minangkabau in West Sumatra, yet we hold our own specific way of life. For us, the mountain is not just a pile of rocks. It is a living presence. This belief is the foundation of our Kerinci People Traditions.
If you visit at the right time, you might see the Kenduri Sko, a festival where villages honor their ancestors and clean historic heirlooms (pusaka). But even on a quiet day, this culture is visible. When locals greet you on the road or in the village, it is genuine. In our custom, a guest is not a stranger, but a responsibility.
Just below the volcano, you will find a green ocean that stretches as far as the eye can see. This is the Kayu Aro Tea Plantation, the second-highest tea plantation in the world and the largest in a single block. However, the Kayu Aro Tea Plantation History tells a deeper story than just agriculture. While the view is stunning, understanding the past adds meaning to your walk.
What stands out here is the product: Orthodox Black Tea of the highest quality.
It might seem strange to visitors that such a premium tea is not more famous globally. The reason is historical. For decades, the tea produced here was so good that it was almost exclusively used for export to Europe, often to improve the quality of other tea blends abroad. It was the “secret ingredient” rather than the main brand.
A History of Change Established by the Dutch firm HVA in the 1920s to supply Queen Wilhelmina, this plantation has seen the tides of history turn. After Indonesia gained independence, the plantation was nationalized. Today, it is proudly managed by the state (PTPN), standing as a national asset that keeps the old traditions alive.
The People Who Tend the Leaves If you spend time in the tea garden, you will notice a distinct culture. The language spoken here is predominantly Javanese, not Kerinci. This is because 80% of the families living in the plantation area are descendants of workers brought from Java during the Dutch era and the 1960s transmigration waves.
We are now living alongside their 5th generation. They have blended Javanese diligence with Sumatran resilience.
Why this matters for your hike: The view of this green ocean against the volcano is one of the main reasons Why Climb Mount Kerinci. Before you start your ascent, take a morning walk here. Seeing the tea picked by hand just as it was a century ago is a perfect way to warm up your legs and respect the history of this land.
While tea is our history, coffee is our rising pride. In recent years, Kerinci Arabica Coffee has quietly stepped onto the global stage, earning recognition as one of the best specialty coffees in Indonesia.
The secret lies in the soil you hike upon.
The coffee trees here grow in volcanic ash, high above sea level, nourished by the frequent mountain rains. This unique terroir gives the beans a complex character often described by experts as having a heavy body with spicy, fruity notes. It is a flavor you cannot separate from the land.
From Robusta to Arabica For a long time, local farmers focused on Robusta. But as the world began to appreciate quality over quantity, our farmers adapted. They shifted to Arabica, treating every cherry with immense care. When you sip a cup in a local roastery in Sungai Penuh or near the mountain, you are tasting the resilience of our farmers and the richness of the volcano.
This shift to quality coffee is now a proud part of modern Kerinci Culture and History, showing how we adapt while keeping our roots strong.
If you look closely at the older settlements particularly in areas like Lempur, Sungai Penuh, or near Lake Kerinci you will see structures that defy modern design.
These are the Rumah Larik (Larik Houses).
In the Kerinci People Traditions, we value the communal bond over the individual. This philosophy is built physically into our architecture. Larik means “row” or “line.” Historically, these wooden houses were built on stilts and connected in long, continuous rows. These structures are a tangible piece of Kerinci Culture and History, standing as a testament to how we lived before modern roads arrived.
The Matrilineal Hearth The design is not accidental. It reflects our matrilineal social structure, where the house is the domain of the women. Extended families lived side-by-side, sharing a veranda, sharing resources, and sharing life.
Today, many of these structures have been replaced by concrete. However, the ones that remain are precious. They feature intricate carvings of flora that carry meanings of protection and harmony. Visiting these houses is not just about seeing old wood. It is about understanding how our ancestors survived in this high valley: together.
Culture is not just what you see; it is what you taste. As a vital flavor in the Culture of Sumatra, food in Kerinci is as bold as the landscape.
Because of the cool mountain climate, our cuisine is designed to warm the body. You cannot leave this valley without trying Dendeng Batokok.
We often call it “The Steak of Kerinci.”
Unlike the crispy, dry dendeng you might find elsewhere in Sumatra, the Kerinci version is tender and juicy. The meat is grilled over wood charcoal, absorbing a distinct smoky aroma. Then, it is “batokok” (beaten) with a stone until the fibers break down. Served with a splash of fresh chili oil, it melts in your mouth just like a premium steak.
The Perfect Pair: Beras Payo To enjoy the “steak,” you need the right rice. Kerinci is famous for Beras Payo, an endemic rice variety grown in our high-altitude wetlands (Lempur area). The grains are large, fluffy, and fragrant.
For locals, eating is a communal act. When you sit down for this meal, you are not just eating calories for your hike you are tasting the harvest of the volcanic soil.
A trip to Kerinci is incomplete if you only look at the ground beneath your boots. To truly arrive here, you must look up at the smiles of the locals, smell the history in the tea, and taste the smoke in the Dendeng Batokok.
The mountain may be what brings you here, but the culture is what makes you want to return.
Whether you are planning a focused adventure journey or a comprehensive Peak to City: Mount Kerinci | Tour Kerinci Highland that includes these cultural and culinary highlights, my advice remains the same: slow down. Kerinci is not just a summit to check off a list. It is a living civilization waiting to welcome you.
If you are ready to see both the fire of the volcano and the warmth of its people, check our guide on How to Get to Kerinci and let’s start the conversation.
